Hear from Linda Beardsley - Return to Rwanda Once Again

Return to Rwanda Once Again

In the first October 2015 post that I wrote in this blog I began with this passage:

Arriving in Rwanda and navigating the first night and day in the country, are always an adventure. In this nation that is rapidly building new infrastructure, developing new ideas and economies, there are always signs of this progress blended with familiar signs, sounds and smells.

That description remains apt to describe our arrival from Amsterdam to the warm, spicey darkness of the airport in Kigali. I always forget that arriving at the airport means you walk off the plane into the night air instead of through a covered tunnel that has been pushed up to the arriving plane as in most arrival terminals. In Rwanda, you exit the plane that has been your seat on the world for 9 hours into the soft night air and walk to the entrance of the Customs Hall where you show your passport, apply and pay for your 30-day visa and retrieve your luggage. An adventure, indeed.  The customs officials are thorough, deliberate, careful. These routines take time and patience.

This trip to Rwanda promises to be different for me in many ways. First, it is a trip for celebration not work. I am traveling with my colleague and fellow educator, Jane O’Connor (and 40 other Maranyundo Girls School supporters) to attend the first graduation  of the STEM High School for Girls on the Maranyundo Campus. Besides celebrating the achievements of this first group of 57 young women who majored in STEM disciplines, it celebrates the commitment of their teachers, the sisters of the BenebikiraOrder who administer the school, the families who support the school. It is also  a celebration of the remarkable partnership that is represented by the MaranyundoInitiative…the visionary women of both Boston and Rwanda who took a pressing need…a school for girls beyond elementary grades…and supported it to become one of the most successful schools in the country. It is a celebration of the families of the girls enrolled in the middle school, who sought the support of the Initiative to build a high school on the campus that would prepare the graduates for post-secondary school studies and employment in the rapidly growing technology sectors of the Rwandan economy.

Secondly, it is a trip on which I will stay in a hotel and not at the girls school, itself. As many of you know, staying at the school is an experience that I treasure. This time, I will be a visitor like everyone else. I will not wake to that gentle light and hear the rooster crow and the soft lowing of the cows in the stable. I will not hear the girls gather at the meeting space outside the administration building and listen to Sr. Juvenal  introduce the day to the students. I will not follow the routines and schedules of the school day, sit in classrooms or spend time with teachers in the library or the Teacher’s Work Space. This trip, I will be a guest, as it were. So I will have a different vantage point from which to experience the graduation and the life of the school.

Besides traveling with the Maranyundo Board members, I am traveling with new supporters of the Initiative. Among the group I am traveling with are Jane O’Connor’s daughter Erin and two of Erin’s friends. They are traveling to Rwanda for the first time. It is so interesting to see the city, to hear the story of Rwanda’s amazing growth since the devastation of the genocide through Erin and her friends. I always come away with new insights to stuff I thought I knew for sure.

One thing I do know for sure every time I enter this country, the development of the infra structure is amazing. It continues to grow and thrive. Around the central city, tall buildings of interesting architectural design are everywhere. One sight which greeted us as we came into the central city last night was the new Convention Center whose centerpiece sports a dome which is lighted with the colors of the Rwandan flag: green, yellow and teal. There are new hotels, elegant and chic, like the new Marriot across from the Serena. New government buildings, new buildings at the University of Rwanda, new banks, new shopping areas.

This morning when we went out to the Genocide Memorial and Museum in central Kigali, our driver took us through the “new city” of Kigali. It was an area of the city that was known as the “bush” before 1994. During the genocide, it was a place where many Tutsis fled as horror came upon their neighborhoods or villages. As a result, it became a place where killers hunted down their prey and left the bodies to be eaten by wild dogs and other animals. A place of death and evil.

Today the area is a place of prosperity with lovely stone homes, gated communities for the rising Rwandan middle class and schools. Moses, our bus driver, who was 7 in 1994 and lost all of his family except for his dad, is so enthusiastic about these  signs of prosperity.  He gives credit to “our brave president” and feels that he is benefiting from the security and “we-are-all-Rwandese” spirit that gives him hope. In fact, he told us that he is expecting his first child in December. “I am rebuilding my family,” he said softly.

And so the signs of prosperity and the building boom in Kigali and its suburbs is a rebuilding that is reflected infamilies that are rebuilding. What an interesting time to be celebrating the graduation of accomplished young women whose school motto… Respect, Responsibility and Leadership…are three ideals so needed right now in a nation developing rapidly.

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